Wednesday, April 4, 2018

On the Road to Marrakech
Morocco, Part Two
March 30, 2018

OK...I admit it! I was blown away by the variety and beauty of Moroccan art on every step of our journey. There was some form of artistic expression wherever I looked...even on the oh, so ancient, crumbling tiled fountains, walls, doors and the cobbled and tiled streets. The paintings and drawings were equally amazing.


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Driving through the scenic cedar forests of the Middle Atlas Mountains (towards the Sahara Desert,)  the images I held when visualizing  Morocco were considerably altered. I thought of Morocco as a  place with narrow, maze-like streets lined with ancient, earth-colored buildings...it's still all of that. But, added to this vision is a remarkable place named IFRANE. It's a town that's unlike any other in Morocco. Located 5,460 feet above sea level in the Middle Atlas Mountain region, this small hill town is the Kingdom's Switzerland. Very European in feeling, it's a sharp contrast to the hot, dry climate that surrounds it....and it has snow!!! It's an  alpine-like village that's a winter playground for the affluent from the Kingdom's big cities. Boasting about 5000 residents, the King has one of his palaces here. It's the only place we saw snow and homes not at all like those in other cities or towns.
We explored a bit, then continued on to our desert destination. At some point, we left our regular vehicle and switched to a 4X4 to navigate the  sandy terrain and dunes of Erg Chebbi. A sunrise-camel-ride was on our schedule...something that excited all of us. Everyone went but me...I was sick!! (Michael and our guide took these photos.) We were  isolated at our desert encampment...it was lovely!



I must say, somewhere in this posting, that the Kingdom of Morocco has the bluest skies... consistently... that I've seen in a long time. Coming from a place where the sky is normally shades of gray, it was an awe-inspiring change! 

The road we were on was exceptionally twisty... made me nauseous! But, somewhere along the way, my "sick bug" seemed to migrate to our friend's system. Not fun...but our next stop was fun and AMAZING! We stopped along the road for a look  at  The ATLAS CORPORATION STUDIO...Morocco's Hollywood. We could tell it was going to be special because it had a Hollywood feel before we even entered the main gates! It was extraordinary to see all the very famous movies that have been filmed there...in part or completely: Ben Hur, The Ten Commandments, Hercules, Red Tent, Spy Game, Cleopatra, Babel and Game of Thrones...among many others. We visited several of the sets and were in awe of the artistry...most of them were made of Styrofoam!!! There's a school, not too far from the studios, that trains those interested in this line of work and from the looks of the sets and props, close up... touching them...we were incredulous at the skill and artistry exhibited! 



Continuing on, this is a screenshot from Michael's Google Maps, of the road we were on to get to Marrakech. Not surprising that our stomachs were more than a bit upset.

But the sights along the way were interesting and unique...
We saw women washing clothes in a stream...


...near a beautiful, peaceful gorge. 


Our guide, Zouhair, and driver, Lahsen, posed for a photo when we stopped to stretch our legs... it was a 5 hour drive to Marrakech. Great guys...both!




As we arrived in the heart of Marrakech, we entered the medina (medieval, walled city) on foot as cars (other than delivery vehicles) aren't permitted inside.  Our riad (guest house) was just a short walk.



More than any other place in the Kingdom of Morocco, Marrakech is the place where tradition and modernity merge. It slaps your senses with its show-stopping muddle of crowded souks (the marketplace shops) where you can find anything you might want. It's so easy to get lost in the labyrinthine web of medina alleys, lanes and streets, but it's always an adventure. Marrakech definitely dazzles and enchants with its frenetic pace.




Marrakech's craft culture lays along side a contemporary arts scene throughout the medina. Fancy boutiques sit next to bazaar-like souks... wonderful eye candy...all! 

For centuries, Place Jemaa el-Fna, the  most extraordinary square in the heart of Merrakech's medina, has been the nerve center and symbol of the city. It's a showcase of traditional Morocco and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Think of it as live-action channel-surfing!! Everywhere we looked, we saw some kind of drama unfolding. The street theater has been non-stop here ever since the plaza was the site of public executions around AD 1050. Although there's lots of activity during the day, the real shows begin at sunset... to restaurants firing up their grills, storytellers, acrobats, singers... to the best show of all...people-watching!

 

Another wonderful people-watching spot, located   just outside of  the center of Marrakech, was a village market where things were alot more raw...


Yves Saint Laurent, world famous couturier, gifted the Jardin Majorelle to Marrakech, the city that adopted him in 1964. He and his partner, Pierre Berge, bought the electric blue villa and its gardens to preserve the vision of its original owner, landscape painter Jacques Majorelle...and opened it to the public. It's a psychedelic desert mirage of 300 plant species from 5 continents...a true oasis where, upon entering, you sigh with relief to be out of the joyful mayhem of Marrakech...even if only for a little while!

 
Time to head home...back to normal, with a suitcase full of memories on which to dwell. Goodbye to the  people we met...(here are a few more...)

 
...special thanks to King Mohammed VI and his very large family for making his country so visitor-friendly...


...and a huge thanks to our dear friends, Gene and Joanne, for joining us on yet another adventure. We look forward to the next...
 

 ...and thanks to our very knowledgeable guide, Zouhair. 

Thanks to family and friends who took the time to read both of these Morocco postings... hope you enjoyed traveling with us.

Big Hugs,
abbyj