Life...The Vivere

CHRISTMAS IN KRAKOW, POLAND

January 3, 2013

Ten days in the 2nd largest and one of the oldest cities in Poland, KRAKOW...that's where we were for Christmas. Situated on the Vistula River, the city dates back to the 7th century...medieval times. In fact, it's a walled city that has traditionally been one of the leading centers of Polish academic, cultural, economic and artistic life. 

Staying at a small, conventional Bed and Breakfast with a definite flavor of Poland, (called TANGO HOUSE) we climbed 55 steps up a winding stairway to our cozy room. 

We were right around the corner from the heart of Krakow's ancient Main Market Square (declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site,)

at the center of the action in this busy city all the time. Centrally located, the sights, sounds and smells  of the Christmas season enveloped us as we walked the cobbled streets and hidden alleyways,

peeked in the gaily decorated shops and eateries...

and enjoyed the Christmas Market stalls and entertainment.

The pungent taste of sausages, sauerkraut and hot, spicy mulled wine are memorable pleasures as was the traditional hourly trumpet signal, heard around the clock...LIVE...since the 13th century... from the top of the taller of St. Mary's two towers.

The plaintive tune breaks off, incomplete, to commemorate the famous 13th century trumpeter who was shot in the throat while sounding the alarm before the Mongol attack on the city.  It's a lovely tradition, though somewhat gruesome in its history. Another lovely happening, (not gruesome at all,) that may BECOME a tradition, was held in the Main Market Square. It was a Christmas tree giveaway.  A local radio station gave a fresh cut tree to all who were patient and cold-resistant enough to wait in the exceptionally long lines. Nice...and there was music playing and lots of seasonal good will going around at the same time!! We wanted to find out more about it, but couldn't find anyone who spoke English!!

A very walkable, beautiful city, untouched by the ravages of WWII, Krakow was the country's first capital (before it was determined that Warsaw should have that distinction...politics!!)  A legend attributes the founding of the city to the mythical ruler, King Krakus, who built it atop a cave inhabited by the Wawel Dragon. The dreaded dragon's lair was at the foot of Wawel Hill on the bank of the Vistula River. 

Wawel Castle can be seen above the dragon's lair today.

Boasting many ancient churches (note the 12 Apostles welcoming worshippers and visitors alike,)

the home of a Pope,

and a few synagogues for the less than 200 Jews left in Krakow,

WWII's Nazi Reign of Terror is still very much in evidence. A visit to the concentration/death camps of Auschwitz and Birkenau was a sobering reminder of humanity's lowest point. It's one thing to read about the horrors of the Holocaust, but quite another to walk on its grounds and see the remnants of these camps: sprawling and desolate places, partially destroyed by the Germans when they realized that they were losing the war. There was enough for us to get a chilling picture...an inkling...of the terror that these people lived through with each borrowed day. We say "Never Again,"  but like atrocities are still happening in pockets all over the world today. 

One of the most unnerving aspects of this visit was to see the young people posing for their friends' cameras, while standing next to assorted horrors, with big grins on their faces. Have sufficient years gone by that Auschwitz is just another museum?

The once Jewish section of Krakow, called Kazimierz, is now an up and coming neighborhood for fashion, night life, restaurants, bars and art. A stone's throw away, we found Oskar Schindler's factory (of "Schindler's List" fame.) A German businessman who came to Poland to profit from WWII, he ended up saving the lives of more than 1200 Jews by employing them...often at great risk to his own life!

On a brighter note, a visit to an extraordinary mall (one of two in Krakow) was a pleasant surprise. It had many high end shops, the usual assortment of chain stores (both Polish and American,) the ONLY Starbucks in the city...it even had a shop that launders, cleans and irons your clothes. Have you ever seen that kind of shop in a mall in the USA or Canada? I haven't! In addition, it had an enormous play/activity/crafts area for children.

I was in Krakow in 1981 doing a documentary for television with Project Hope at the Polish-American Children's Hospital. The country had just emerged from Communist rule and was carefully, cautiously stretching  its arms toward freedom. It was the first time there were colorful fruits and vegetables in the markets. The steel mills were still going strong and when it snowed, it was actually GRAY, not white!! When we were out walking, the air pollution made breathing difficult...many wore masks. Today, the city of Krakow is unrecognizable. It has opened its arms to tourists and created a strong infrastructure that has made a visit to this medieval city a wonderful experience. People were warm and welcoming, returning our smiles and greetings. Seeing remnants of the walled, medieval city that Krakow was...it's ancient buildings (like the Renaissance style Cloth Hall, the world's arguably oldest shopping mall and hub of the city since the 13th century,) 

and stepping aside for the passing horse and carriage, visiting Krakow was a treat that will remain in our thoughts and bring us smiles for a long time to come!

Thanks for traveling with me... I'm taking the month off from blogging. There may be a quick posting here and there, but I hope to see you in February, when I'll be blogging regularly once again.

Thanks, family and friends...Once again, Happy 2013!!

Big Hugs and love,
abbyj