INDOCHINA: 
VIETNAM & CAMBODIA

FFebruary 8, 2013

Honoring all those who suffered

         intolerable horrors of war and brutality 
in Vietnam and Cambodia

Hi Dear Family and Friends,

It's been a while since I've blogged...hard to do when your days are spent touring new places and evenings are spent sleeping off the day's exhaustion!! Just enough time to return to the hotel after a day of touring, check photos, have dinner and get a decent night's sleep to prepare for the NEXT full day of walking, climbing and sightseeing. This tourist thing is not for sissies!!!  :) 

Vietnam is a nation that's developing FAST. It's people are energetic, friendly and resilient.  

Their lives are deliciously simple and peaceful, ever enveloped in the scent of burning wood.

The American War (what we call the Vietnam War) is over, but its impact endures...in those affected by Agent Orange, among other things. We visited the underground tunnel system used by the Vietnamese during the war...it goes for miles and has several entrances...all undetectable. Michael was able to get in and out of one entrance...

A visit to Hanoi wouldn't be complete without a visit to the famous "Hanoi Hilton." The Hoa Lo Prison was used by the French colonists in Vietnam for political prisoners and later, by the North Vietnamese Army to house, torture and interrogate prisoners of war.

I found it interesting that there was little that was "oriental" in Vietnam's architecture. Their French Colonial legacy won out. Charming, really. 

There were poor areas, but never squalid.

Our introduction to Vietnam came in the form of big city, Hanoi, with its graceful, sweeping boulevards and MANIC traffic... mostly motorbikes. It was definitely a challenge crossing the streets...life-threatening even! In addition, cars, motorbikes and carts all have horns that honk constantly as if to say "watch out for me!!" 

Throughout North Vietnam, many were getting ready for the Chinese New Year...preparing lanterns and selling New Years paper goods...very colorful!!

Other observations: the Vietnamese people are shorter than most Americans, they're somewhat superstitious, they worship their ancestors (you can see Spirit Houses outside each homestead, honoring family ancestors)

and they pay serious attention to yin yang and feng shui.

South Vietnam, influenced by Indian and Hindu cultures, has spicy regional cuisine...chili and coconut are predominant flavors.

In North Vietnam, the Chinese influence is more apparent...Uncle Ho (Ho Chi Minh) is a heroic figure...not so in South Vietnam. 

Central Vietnam is the quintessential Vietnam...the old historic port of Hoi An,

the royal tombs and pagodas of Hue...

floating fishing villages that teem with activity...

farms scattered throughout the countryside...the rhythm of Vietnamese life.

Throughout Vietnam, the enduring French legacy is evident not only in the architecture, but in language as well as in the crispy baguette and coffee culture you'll find everywhere. 

Add to the cultural smorgasbord the influence of the American interlude, the more than 50 hill tribes in their colorful, traditional dress...

and the ever-present, powerful, ruling Communist Party... 

and you've got one heady, intoxicating and unique country...VIETNAM!

In a few days, I'll post about Cambodia...many, many photos to sort through. Both Vietnam and Cambodia are stunningly beautiful...each in their own way. Please check back in a couple of days for a Cambodian trip report...

Happy to "see" you here.
Hugs and welcome back,
abbyj

FIRST POST: ARTFUL READERS

January 25, 2013

Hi Family and Friends,

Well, we're somewhat entrenched in the new year...I hope things are going well for you and that you've started to meet all those goals you set for yourself. One of my goals is to read even more than before, so, I've made a commitment to ART and SOLE's new club, ARTFUL READERS. (Last year, it was the weekly Postcard Art Challenge from different countries. Remember?)

At the end of each month, for the next year, I'll be posting some art representing a book I've read and will review the book as well. Perhaps it'll be something you've already read... or I'll offer a suggestion to read (or NOT read it!!!) Hope you'll  check back at month's end to check it out!

My first book is one with which many are already familiar. I started reading it after having been in Poland for Christmas and visiting Auschwitz and Birkenau, Nazi Concentration/Death Camps. Here's my review, followed by my art representing THE BOOK THIEF by Marcus Zazak (published in 2005.)

Each book review and representitive art will go in my journal. If you've read THE BOOK THIEF, I hope it was a stand-out for you as it was for me. If you haven't...what are you waiting for????

Happy reading until my next review... see you for my next regular posting the beginning of February.

Thanks for stopping by. Had a wonderful haitus that I'll tell you about soon.

Hugs,
abbyj

CHRISTMAS IN KRAKOW, POLAND

January 3, 2013

Ten days in the 2nd largest and one of the oldest cities in Poland, KRAKOW...that's where we were for Christmas. Situated on the Vistula River, the city dates back to the 7th century...medieval times. In fact, it's a walled city that has traditionally been one of the leading centers of Polish academic, cultural, economic and artistic life. 

Staying at a small, conventional Bed and Breakfast with a definite flavor of Poland, (called TANGO HOUSE) we climbed 55 steps up a winding stairway to our cozy room. 

We were right around the corner from the heart of Krakow's ancient Main Market Square (declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site,)

at the center of the action in this busy city all the time. Centrally located, the sights, sounds and smells  of the Christmas season enveloped us as we walked the cobbled streets and hidden alleyways,

peeked in the gaily decorated shops and eateries...

and enjoyed the Christmas Market stalls and entertainment.

The pungent taste of sausages, sauerkraut and hot, spicy mulled wine are memorable pleasures as was the traditional hourly trumpet signal, heard around the clock...LIVE...since the 13th century... from the top of the taller of St. Mary's two towers.

The plaintive tune breaks off, incomplete, to commemorate the famous 13th century trumpeter who was shot in the throat while sounding the alarm before the Mongol attack on the city.  It's a lovely tradition, though somewhat gruesome in its history. Another lovely happening, (not gruesome at all,) that may BECOME a tradition, was held in the Main Market Square. It was a Christmas tree giveaway.  A local radio station gave a fresh cut tree to all who were patient and cold-resistant enough to wait in the exceptionally long lines. Nice...and there was music playing and lots of seasonal good will going around at the same time!! We wanted to find out more about it, but couldn't find anyone who spoke English!!

A very walkable, beautiful city, untouched by the ravages of WWII, Krakow was the country's first capital (before it was determined that Warsaw should have that distinction...politics!!)  A legend attributes the founding of the city to the mythical ruler, King Krakus, who built it atop a cave inhabited by the Wawel Dragon. The dreaded dragon's lair was at the foot of Wawel Hill on the bank of the Vistula River. 

Wawel Castle can be seen above the dragon's lair today.

Boasting many ancient churches (note the 12 Apostles welcoming worshippers and visitors alike,)

the home of a Pope,

and a few synagogues for the less than 200 Jews left in Krakow,

WWII's Nazi Reign of Terror is still very much in evidence. A visit to the concentration/death camps of Auschwitz and Birkenau was a sobering reminder of humanity's lowest point. It's one thing to read about the horrors of the Holocaust, but quite another to walk on its grounds and see the remnants of these camps: sprawling and desolate places, partially destroyed by the Germans when they realized that they were losing the war. There was enough for us to get a chilling picture...an inkling...of the terror that these people lived through with each borrowed day. We say "Never Again,"  but like atrocities are still happening in pockets all over the world today. 

One of the most unnerving aspects of this visit was to see the young people posing for their friends' cameras, while standing next to assorted horrors, with big grins on their faces. Have sufficient years gone by that Auschwitz is just another museum?

The once Jewish section of Krakow, called Kazimierz, is now an up and coming neighborhood for fashion, night life, restaurants, bars and art. A stone's throw away, we found Oskar Schindler's factory (of "Schindler's List" fame.) A German businessman who came to Poland to profit from WWII, he ended up saving the lives of more than 1200 Jews by employing them...often at great risk to his own life!

On a brighter note, a visit to an extraordinary mall (one of two in Krakow) was a pleasant surprise. It had many high end shops, the usual assortment of chain stores (both Polish and American,) the ONLY Starbucks in the city...it even had a shop that launders, cleans and irons your clothes. Have you ever seen that kind of shop in a mall in the USA or Canada? I haven't! In addition, it had an enormous play/activity/crafts area for children.

I was in Krakow in 1981 doing a documentary for television with Project Hope at the Polish-American Children's Hospital. The country had just emerged from Communist rule and was carefully, cautiously stretching  its arms toward freedom. It was the first time there were colorful fruits and vegetables in the markets. The steel mills were still going strong and when it snowed, it was actually GRAY, not white!! When we were out walking, the air pollution made breathing difficult...many wore masks. Today, the city of Krakow is unrecognizable. It has opened its arms to tourists and created a strong infrastructure that has made a visit to this medieval city a wonderful experience. People were warm and welcoming, returning our smiles and greetings. Seeing remnants of the walled, medieval city that Krakow was...it's ancient buildings (like the Renaissance style Cloth Hall, the world's arguably oldest shopping mall and hub of the city since the 13th century,) 

and stepping aside for the passing horse and carriage, visiting Krakow was a treat that will remain in our thoughts and bring us smiles for a long time to come!

Thanks for traveling with me... I'm taking the month off from blogging. There may be a quick posting here and there, but I hope to see you in February, when I'll be blogging regularly once again.

Thanks, family and friends...Once again, Happy 2013!!

Big Hugs and love,
abbyj

NEW YEAR: NEW CHALLENGE 

January 1st, 2013

Happy New Year's to YOU and yours!

Hi Dear Ones,

This is a quickie post to place my books (for one a month) on the shelf for the year-long 2013 challenge...Artful Readers Club. It's run by Art and Sole's Darcy Wilkinson. Today's the day we declare the books we hope to read and the last Friday of each month, we blog our book review and create a piece of art inspired by the book. I'm listing 14 in case I start one and don't care for it!! 

                                Here are my books:

The Book Thief by Markus Zusak

Breath of God by Jeffrey Small

The Distant Hours by Kate Morton

The Glass Room by Simon Mawer

The Great Lenore by J.M.Tohline

Hangman's Daughter by Oliver Potzsch

House of Sand and Fog by Andre Dubus III

The Invisible Bridge by Julie Orringer

Little Princes by Conor Grennan

The Panther by Nelson DeMille

Sacred Hearts by Sarah Dunant

The Snow Child by Eowyn Ivey

The Tiger's Wife by Tea Obreht

The Warmth of Other Suns by Isabel Wilkerson

It's a real mixture of times, places and themes. I'm

really looking forward to starting my first book...

THE BOOK THIEF!! Will let you know how it is...

Enjoy, everyone!! This is a great New Year's resolution...read at least a book a month! Thanks for the inspiration, Darcy.

Next posting: A REAL TRIP TO POLAND

LAST TWO VIRTUAL COUNTRIES

and

A PROMISE

December 27, 2012

Hi dear family and friends,

Almost back to normal after our Christmas trip to Krakow, Poland. Unpacking, laundry and catching up to do....and since it's the end of my (our) year-long commitment to Art and Sole's Postcard Challenge (Blog,) I thought I'd start with the posting of the last two countries. I'll be posting again within the week about Krakow sites, sounds and smells...photos will tell the story. I hope you'll check back...

For now, the last two countries in the Postcard Challenge are:

Greenland, home of the indigenous Inuit people... Eskimos and their ice brick part-time houses when they're hunting and FREEZING COLD temperatures most of the time! After all, they are in the arena of  the Arctic Circle!!

and finally, our southern neighbor, Mexico...home of the ancient but extremely progressive and advanced civilizations of the Mayans and Aztecs; several active volcanoes; the almost extinct indigenous Volcano Rabbit and one of the few places to which Monarch Butterflies migrate annually.

See you later this week for some show and tell about Poland? 
I hope your holiday has been wonderful and that  2013 will be a spectacular year for you and yours!

Hugs and love,
abbyj